Barcelona, like most European cities, is a study in contrasts.  Old structures mix with modern buildings, the pace of traffic is scary fast and yet a meal is agonizingly slow, wide treelined avenues mesh with narrow alleyways where it’s easy to get lost, lots of healthy movement and yet they all smoke and there’s tempting gelato everywhere.

Our two days here were spent exploring this vibrant and proud city. Our primary means of transport was the double decker tourist bus – an easy way to get around and hop off when we wanted to see something or have a snack or drink.

The highlight of our stops – beyond wine and coffee! – was the Sagrada Familia, a church that’s been under construction for 100+ years. They say it will be completed in 9 years, in time for the 100th anniversary of architect Antoni Gaudi’s death. Gaudi’s work is everywhere in Barcelona. It’s a whimsical style, ornamented with colorful tiles and mirrors. It’s all a bit gaudy, and Andy and I wondered if that’s where the word ‘gaudy’ comes from but Google says no.

Our experience here was heightened further by the fact that we happened to arrive three days after the terrorist attack where a van plowed into a crowd of people in a very busy pedestrian area.  Our hotel is just about a block off the spot on La Ramblas where it all happened. There are 13 memorials – one for each victim. During the day there are peaceful gatherings where people hold up signs indicating solidarity between Christians and Muslims. Another group holds up signs offering free hugs; there’s a long line. At night, prayer vigils are held near the memorials. Police are everywhere we go; they  carry automatic rifles in the open and are on high alert, watching people very intently. And yet life goes on. The tourists keep coming. The city’s dichotomy continues – fast and slow, old and new, pain and healing.